medicb
Poziom 21
Joined: 19 Nov 2003
Posts: 1450
Location: Skądy Wielkie
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 #2
28 Nov 2005 08:46 Re: icom r-1 discrimination chip !!! |
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Tu masz coś po angielsku ale nie jestem pewien czy to dokładnie na temat:
(R-1) R1 (and IC-nSAT) Owners Note
R1 Tech Note #1 (c) 1991 Paul Flaherty
The BNC connector on most HTs leaves something to be desired, and the R1 and cousins are no exception. The connector nut
and the back case form a smooth - smooth metal boundary, and the connector eventually will come loose.
If this happens to you, do *not* merely retighten the nut. Instead, take it off, place a lock washer underneath the nut, and
*then* retighten. If you don't, you'll wind up with a cycle of loosening and retightening. This is not a good thing, since the wire
connecting the BNC to the PC motherboard is solid, and the solder connection leaves something to be desired.
If you've already managed to twist the wire loose from the PC board, all is not lost; the wire may be reattached. WARNING: The
following instructions are *NOT* for the faint of heart. If you have *ANY* doubts about your technical abilities (especially
soldering), find someone experienced with repair of handheld radios to do it for you.
You'll need:
A low wattage soldering iron, preferably cordless
The soldersucker of your choice
A very small phillips screwdriver (the smallest standard Craftsman will do)
Some fresh eutectic solder, thin variety
An anti - static wrist strap
Mouse clips or a small pair of needle nose pliers
Strap yourself in. Doubtless, the R1 can be zapped by static.
1. Take out the two long screws on the upper right of the back case, the small screw in the upper right of the front case, near
the tether hole, and the two screws in the bottom of the front case.
2. Separate the front case from the rest of the radio. There is a printed circuit ribbon connecting the front case to the
motherboard, and the ribbon is located on the right (viewed from the front) side.
3. Remove the four phillips screws which hold the motherboard to the back.
4. Now, a few notes on how the R1 is put together. The gray plastic plate, on which the three controls on top of the R1
(squelch, volume, tune) are mounted, slides free from the back case. The gray plastic plate, the controls, the power and
speaker jacks, and the motherboard all remove as one piece (thank the Great Engineer).
5. Remove the 300 maH battery by pulling toward you (it's held in place by a metal clip) (and note that it's nicely
connectorized for replacement somewhere down the road). Now, pull on the lower (eg, the part that was nearest the
battery) portion of the motherboard, while pushing the power and speaker jacks thru the holes, and then lift up on the gray
plastic top piece. The whole mess will come free. Take note of the small piece of rubber which fits between the
motherboard and the back case. This forms the shock mount for the board. Also note the small piece of gray rubber which
forms the light/lock pushbutton.
6. Take a breather, or have the nurse sponge down your forehead.
7. Remove the BNC connector. Curse loundly.
8. Remove the solder and wire from the PC board hole (in the corner of the board).
9. Reattach the BNC connector to the PC board.
10. Now for the fun part. Insert the BNC connector into the hole, while pushing the motherboard back into position, taking note
to reinsert the gray pushbutton piece on the right side of the case (as viewed from the front). Refit the gray top piece.
Place the small rubber shock mount behind the pc board, and reinstall the four screws (I used a pair of surgical mouse clips
for this, but a pair of needle nosed pliers will do).
11. Reinsert the battery, replace the front cover, and reinstall screws.
12. Turn on. If you've done everything right, you'll have a working R1. If not, make sure you havn't pinched any wires in
between the case halves.
One final note:
The antenna that comes with the R1 leaves a lot to be desired.
Try using a Radio Shack PRO-34 scanner antenna instead; the improvement is impressive.
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28 Nov 2005 01:17